The first days in Cairo are silent. I know few people and have no appointments. Everything is empty except for the streets, which are filled with vehicles and people from early in the morning until deep into the night. The space this gives me to think, look and feel is something I never get the hang of in my own city. In Amsterdam everything closes after a little while and I always get entangled in a web of appointments and other apparent essentials. But in Cairo this has yet to become habitual. Here darkness comes as if it's never been dark before. The smells, my gestures, everything I do and see and feel is fresh.